Not just for cowboys, packaged dried beef makes a wonderful starter for this dip, with smoky adobo chiles, toasted pecans, and melted Monterey Jack cheese.
Vietnamese rice paper wrappers (also called báhn tráng) are easy to work with once you’ve moistened one or two and gotten a feel for how they soften up. You can also serve these wraps as appetizers by slicing them in half on the bias and serving them standing pointy-end up.
