Not just for cowboys, packaged dried beef makes a wonderful starter for this dip, with smoky adobo chiles, toasted pecans, and melted Monterey Jack cheese.
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Vietnamese rice paper wrappers (also called báhn tráng) are easy to work with once you’ve moistened one or two and gotten a feel for how they soften up. You can also serve these wraps as appetizers by slicing them in half on the bias and serving them standing pointy-end up.
Spicy sprouts, such as broccoli, arugula, or leek, give sushi rolls a delicate crunch and peppery flavor. A sushi mat makes it easy to wrap the nori and rice tightly around fillings, but it’s not necessary.
